22/9/2021 - Portloe to Mevagissey (12.76mls)

This turned out to be a very arduous walk with a height gain of 2460ft, our highest yet, taking in The Dodman which is the highest point of the south coast of Cornwall.

Leaving Portloe we made steady progress along the cliff to West Portholland and then the short distance to East Portholland where we came across a peloton of old folks on electric bikes - the future of staycations in this country?

A number of times we have had conversations along the path where it has come out that they are from near where we live and today was no exception. We had a long chat with a couple, with the mandatory SWCP dog, who were from Bristol but with a property in Canada that they visit regularly (in normal times) and which they were planning to be able to get over to in November to check it out before Christmas.

Soon after East Portholland we entered the Caerhays Estate with the imposing Carhays Castle and a Watch House ...

Again we walked some extra yards here due to what we maintained were imprecise instructions in the SW Coast Path Guides. Not this time, but quite often, the impression is given that the next landmark happens almost immediately whereas in actuality it doesn't occur for several miles.

The imposing hill of The Dodman was the next challenge and on arriving at the summit we had our lunch under the cross built in 1896 by the local vicar as an aid to navigation ...

Interestingly, we spotted that the lightening conductor on the cross was installed by a J Dawson of Clutton, near where Justine's parents live, and subsequent research revealed that the company is somewhat of a specialist in lightening conductors among other things and is still very much alive being run by a sixth generation Dawson.

Passing through Gorran Haven ...

... we arrived at Portmellon Cove where the loos rated zero in terms of facilities and cleanliness and the beach cafe zero for service to the extent that Justine gave up waiting. By this time DavidA had been suffering with a knee problem which meant he was in discomfort particularly on the downhill sections.

At Mevagissey Fiona was waiting down by the harbour where she could see us arriving in a small park high above on the opposite side. In the late afternoon Mevagissey didn't look very pretty and we couldn't find a pub in the sunshine for a drink so walked half a mile back to the main car park and went home via a country pub that also wasn't very inviting.

Fiona had spent some of the day at the Lost Gardens of Heligan which was very crowded despite timed entry and was unable to get anything to eat as the queues were so long.

All in all not the most enjoyable of days all round.