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13/9/2023 Crackington Haven to Boscastle to Tintagel (7.41mls & 4.72mls)

Updated: Sep 20, 2023

By now it was clear that we were not going to be able to complete the final stretch to South Haven Point in this visit. On the day before, the 3 walkers had visited Tintagel by car and walked across the new bridge to the island and around the ruins of the castle, and we have to say that we were not overawed by it all. The village of Tintagel was quite tacky as well with numerous food and drink outlets as well as a splattering of "Glastonbury" type witch shops where one could purchase life enhancing crystals! The best part of the visit in our view was the National Trust restored and maintained Old Post Office which better illustrated what life was like in earlier times i.e. social history, rather than imagining what life was like in earlier times from a few pieces of crumbling stone. No doubt others will differ!


Anyway, today's challenge was to walk to Tintagel starting back at Crackington Haven. To do this we were combining 2 walks from the SWCP Handbook. The first part to Boscastle was advised as strenuous so Justine and David L set off from Crackington Haven after Justine had had her morning fix of hot chocolate and cream.


The rock formations on the beaches in the area are fascinating and fairly common on this stretch of the coast path ...



A number of walkers set off just before us but after we had chosen the less stressful option of the path around Cambeak (to test whether David L had recovered sufficiently), rather than the zigzag path over the top, we were well ahead of them all, for a time anyway. The walk was not as strenuous as expected and, whilst there were ups and downs as ever was on the SWCP, the scenery was very green both on land and on the rocks.


At Rusey Cliff near Newton Farm we came across a number of goats quietly grazing or indeed seemingly sitting perfectly still totally unfazed by passing walkers ...



There then followed a debate for 24hrs as to whether they were goats or some sort of long horned sheep until finally after much googling it was agreed that they were native/feral Scottish goats.


At Fire Beacon Point we again took the optional higher path rejoining the Coast Path just before descending into the Pentagon valley. From the footbridge there was then a steep climb of about 180 steps eventually passing a short access path to the highly recommended Boscastle Farm Shop and Cafe. We did not have time to sample the delights there as we were tight on time to meet Fiona and David A in the National Trust Cafe on the Boscastle Harbourside.

It is hard to appreciate the the fact that many of the buildings in Boscastle were damaged or destroyed in the extensive flooding in August 2004 - all seemed so peaceful now.


David A now joined Justine and David L for the relatively easy walk to Tintagel, leaving Boscastle by crossing the bridge and climbing up the gentle path towards the sea end of the Harbour. Again the scenery was very green, including the rocks and islands just off shore. Just before we dropped down into the very attractive Rocky Valley, David A quietly alerted us to a Kestrel hovering almost above our heads. Quietly because he had been teased about this since his initial sighting on the Isle of Portland on Week1 of walking together 3 years ago. It was now our final week 10 so was quite poignant!



On reaching Tintagel, in 2hrs rather than the expected 3hrs, instead of continuing to Tintagel Haven and walking down to the visitor centre and then having to walk back up to the town, we opted to cut across the headland on a footpath towards the Tintagel Castle Hotel. Bad move because shortly the path seemed to disappear into a mini bog and Justine was not best pleased to splash cow poo up her legs! In Tintagel we met Fiona by the pasty bakery and shop and adjourned to the local pub after a long but satisfying day before travelling back to Davidstow.



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